Filed under: Hot Topic, Resources, Sustainable Living | Tags: Green Building MIami, Green Building South Florida, LEED Miami Green Building, Sebastian Eilert Architecture, Sebastian Eilert Architecture Miami Green
Green Certification in Subtropical climates, such as South Florida, has many pros and cons and making the decision to go green can be a difficult but fruitful one. The heat in the summer and the pounding sun throughout the year make air conditioning here a basic necessity. Power bills are generally much higher than elsewhere in the continental US and the intense sunlight also damages building facades and roofs faster than if in a temperate zone. The Subtropical sun is also more intense contributing to the heat island effect. The sun is not the only challenge a Subtropical climate faces, but high humidity brings with it mildew and mold into homes and requires special treatment of building materials and construction practices. Finally, frequent and heavy winds accompanied by plenty of rain can easily damage more fragile building materials. Stormwater management must be addressed even on small projects. The Florida Hurricane Code tests building wind loads and sets minimum standards. This is set under the Florida Building Code: Test Protocols for High-Velocity Hurricane Zones.
The Monetary Gain/Loss Factor
When deciding whether or not to pursue certification, one item to consider is whether increased operations cost will outweigh the initial investment. Is it worth it to you? Replacing appliances and other fixtures has sometimes a larger initial cost, but the benefits can include lower energy and water bills.
In LEED(R) for New Construction and Major Renovations there are many points that are easily ontained with little added cost. In the Sustainable Sites category, there are several credits based alternative transportation methods. Creating space forbicycle storage and changing rooms with showers and having access to public transportation are simple additions in the scheme of a large design. Other attainable points can be found in the category of Materials and Resources. In this category, using regional materials (materials from within 500 miles of the site) can actually lower the cost of construction by minimizing transportation costs. Material reuse on site is also beneficial and lowers your costs.
Some of the more costly credits fall under the category of Energy and Atmosphere. Solar panels start at around $1.00 per watt and creating a medium sized grid connected system for a home can run around $40,000. Most states, however, offer a 30% federal tax credit for using solar power. The initial cost is much higher, but when performing a life cycle cost analysis, the payback can begin after 10 years or so (depending on the size and power of the grid). When considering solar power, there are a few things to think about.
1. How many kilowatt hours a month do you use? You can find this on your electric bill.
2. Where do you live? In this case, South Florida. The amount of sunlight and the intensity of the sunlight make solar panels ideal. If we were in Russia, the frozen tundra with little to no sun,, solar panels might not pay back as much, if at all.
3. Where will you be installing the panels? A south facing roof is best.
4. How much of your electric bill will you offset with solar? i.e. How many panels and how much payback would you like to see?
5. What other upgrades can you complete to achieve the maximum solar power benefit (such as increasing insulation, reducing electrical load demand and upgrading windows and doors for better weatherization).
This website provides information on solar power pricing, installation, and use. http://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-cost.html
The Tax Factor
Many states offer tax credits to those who follow green building principles. These tax credits are given based on initial costs for the most part. Some credits include 30% pay back on expenses made for EnergyStar appliances and 30% on cost of solar panels. These federal tax credits have a tendency to change very year so an internet search for your local credits is recommended. In Florida, there are many credit options available. This site contains a list of Florida incentives and policies, as well as other states: http://www.dsireusa.org/incentives/index.cfm?re=1&ee=1&spv=0&st=0&srp=1&state=FL
The Exposure Factor
Large corporations such as Radio Shack and FedEx are converting their headquarters to LEED certified buildings. Why? Not only for lower long run operating costs, but also for media exposure. A headline stating that “So and So Corporate Headquarters Achieves LEED Certification” or “Sustainable and Environmental Awareness by So and So Corporation” sheds good light on the company to the public or good “corporate social responsbility”.. Larger buildings achieving LEED certification makes the company, the builder, the architect and all involved feel good and recognize the team as conscious of their environment. With all the news of global warming and destruction of rainforests, wildlife, nature, etc., LEED certification provides a company with the upper hand on environmental marketing.
In South Florida, energy efficiency and green building is increasingly common, and creating a greener city is a government objective. In Florida, there are 450 LEED certified buildings, 34 of which are in the City of Miami. There are also 177 registered projects in Miami. They range from a parking garage, to a corporate headquarters, to university buildings. The broad range of LEED projects in Miami are creating a well-rounded green city. The exposure is not just something for the parties involved but also for the City and the State. It has become a country wide effort to “LEED-ify” the way we build, reduce our emissions and protect the environment.
With these sites, you can see what LEED certified buildings are around you, as well as the registered projects.
http://www.usgbc.org/LEED/Project/CertifiedProjectList.aspx
http://www.usgbc.org/LEED/Project/RegisteredProjectList.aspx
http://www.archive.org/stream/gov.fl.hurricane.code/fl_hurricane#page/n1/mode/2up
http://www.sgauge.com/greenci/?q=node/73
http://www.usgbc.org/ShowFile.aspx?DocumentID=3638
http://www.gleearchitects.com/sustainablefaqtropic2.htm
www.usgbc.org/ShowFile.aspx?DocumentID=5719
www.usgbc.org/DisplayPage.aspx?CMSPageID=222
Filed under: Building knowledge, Hot Topic, Resources, Uncategorized | Tags: building knowledge, florida building, hot topic, permitting
Check out the recording called “2010 Building Code Questions and Answer Webinar held March 13, 2012 at:
http://www.floridabuilding.org/cm/cm_hottopics.aspx
Slide the audio progress bar over to minute 33:47 to hear the answer on the retrofit provision that affects windows. Ann Stanton, the energy technical adviser at the Florida Building Commission, explains the 30% rule. She said “energy code is not applicable” unless there is a major renovation that exceeds 30% of the assessed value of the structure.
Another question on the same topic came up at 42:15 in the call.
Important Information on the New Florida Building Codes
The new FBC energy codes go into March 15, 2012 for permits pulled on March 15 or after. Although the energy codes continue to get stronger, they are not as bad as some would want you to believe. Aluminum impact windows and doors meet the energy code and in most retrofit situations are not even subject to the new energy code.
New construction is a different matter.
The code has two formal paths for compliance, the Prescriptive path and the Performance path.
- Prescriptive Path- Section 402.1 – is the “EZ 1040” way of complying. This path requires a .30 SHGC and a .75 U Factor (for impact products). However, given a renovation carve out in the Florida Statutes (see below) we believe the Prescriptive Path won’t be used frequently. If used it will be mostly used for retrofit and required insulated glass with high performance Lo E coatings.
- Performance Path - Section 405 “the 1040 Long Form” way of complying. Today represents +/- 95% of new energy permits and is not expected to change. This is used mostly for new construction and requires the engineer to use Energy Gauge Software to calculate glass values, AC ratings, and other thermal properties of building materials. New provision in the code – SHGC coefficient now a maximum of 0.50 (gray monolithic glass in most applications will meet this, depending on trade-offs in the software).
Important footnote for window replacements on existing structures: Table 101.4.1 footnote “d” says that if the cost of renovations to an existing building is less than 30% of the assessed value of the structure, it is not subject to the code. So, for example if you are retrofitting a home that is worth $300,000, as long as the renovations do not exceed $90,000, the renovations are not subject to the FBC energy code. We have confirmed this with the staff of the Florida Building Commission, and it also came up in the FBC Webinar that was held yesterday. If you want to confirm any of this information, feel free to contact the staff at the Florida Building Commission at 850-488-0964.
Some Manufacturers are Trying to Mislead Building Departments and Customers Regarding the Renovation Provisions of the New FBC Energy Codes.
One Major Florida Manufacturer Dealer Letter Says This (highlights added):
“There also exists a Florida Statute that defines a renovation as construction that exceeds 30% of the assessed value of the property, meaning projects with a scope of work less than this value may not need to comply with the code. (This may seem like a loop hole to some, but try to convince the local building department that you do not have to follow code on a window replacement and see where that gets you). We offer a wide range of products that meet the requirements in table 402.1.1, however, before you order, we strongly recommend that you talk with your local building official about his/her plans for enforcement of this code.”
Fact: Renovations for most trades including window and doors that do not exceed 30% of the assessed value of the structure are not subject to the energy codes. This is Florida law and the Florida Building Code (Energy Code included) does not supersede Florida law. The 553.906 Florida Statute provisions (where this 30% provision is located) were passed in 1979 by the Florida Legislature and are clear on this point. The only way to amend this is to go back to the Florida Legislature.
(text by Laura Hernandez of The Companies of R&S)
“Evolve your Home” is the slogan for the new concept that
opened its store/showroom location in Coral Gables. Proprietors Christopher Block
and Buck Reilly have combined their experience in home energy auditing and
passion for good design and quality materials that have one common denominator:
they will make your home better in some way. That may include saving energy, reducing
your carbon footprint, saving water or improving your air quality.
The concept merges professional consulting on sustainable issues
with the ability to actually touch, sample and order some of the systems and materials
discussed. The benefit to the homeowner is that a pre-selection, or quality
control has already been applied to the materials exhibit in the showroom.
The benefit of actually experiencing the materials, rather
than looking at them in an online catalog, is one very valuable feature not just
to the homeowner looking to be more “green”, but also to professionals like
myself. I can now happily guide current and future clients to Habify to view a
lot of the materials I have been using for years.
The opening was attended by many in the green building industry
as well by selected Coral Gables officials to welcome the new business to Coral
Gables. A stylish event, I am sure it is indicative of the quality work Habify
brings to the area.
Learn more at: http://www.habify.com/
Former Oklahoma University scientist reveals how geothermal heat pumps spend less energy and increase the quality of air. Are you aware that Gerald McClain, after numerous years working with geothermal energy leader James Bose at Oklahoma State College, has invented an innovative home geothermal heating and cooling system?
Heat pumps function as a refrigerator in reverse, they use electric power to move heat from one place to one other instead of making heat directly. Therefore, they can be 2 to 3 times more power efficient than conventional electric heaters. A geothermal heat pump is a central home heating and/or cooling system that pumps heat to/or from the terrain. It uses the earth as a heat source (in the winter) or a heat sink (in the summer).
The geothermal pump models are between the most energy efficient systems for providing HVAC (Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning) and water heating. The start-up rates are higher than conventional systems (about $45,000 decreased by a 30 % with federal tax credit), but the difference is typically returned in energy savings in three to 10 years.
The Gerald McClain’s geothermal system is based on:
- 6 one inch diameter pipes sunk three hundred feet into the soft red clay below his home
- A water antifreeze mix in the pipes that picks up the ground’s constant sixty two degree F. temperature
- 3 heat pumps in the attic that use a small electric powered compressor to heat or cool the home
The energy for the pumps costs around $100 monthly, much less than the normal heating and cooling monthly bill in the area. A well managed heat pump system not only will save electricity, but will also blow dust into the house, improving in house air quality.
Indoor dust can pose health hazards, specially to young children. New data (As released in the epa.gov site in Sept ’09) presents that indoor dust is highly contaminated by persistent and endocrine disrupting chemicals (such as poly-chlorinated biphenyls).
Heat pumps achieve energy effectiveness by transferring heat around as opposed to liberating it. This is not to say there is no air activity with a heat pump, but the heat move lowers that process. So does the lack of a cold-cycle as it exists in many standard furnaces, which also acts to blow dust through the house.
About the writer – Lorie Wampler writes for the <a href=”http://www.splitairconditioning.net/mini-split-heat-pumps”>heat pumps ratings</a> blog. It’s a nonprofit website concentrated on her personal knowledge with air conditioning to reduce energy usage and improve indoor air quality. With this she would like to increase the awareness on eco-friendly tips for the home and change the public perception of energy efficiency.
Annotations on 7 Xeriscaping Principles for South Florida
(created by Ronald E. Mossman, Ph.D., edited and revised by Sebastian Eilert, AIA)
- DESIGN: Select low maintenance plants. Use few flower beds and only near entrances – not a ring of flowering plants around each tree. Evaluate the site for daily and seasonal wind and sun exposure. Buffer NW winter winds and lightly shade SE areas. Shade the AC compressor and west-facing wall. Determine major Residential uses: public, private, service and shade accordingly.
- PLANT SELECTION: Group plants by water needs. Native and regionally appropriate plant community and other plants with specific water tolerances (water, soil, light, salt and wind). Plan for different species to be in bloom each season. Select for wildlife food sources as well as human food sources. Select plants for their mature size, avoid instant landscape. Give the plants room to grow properly.
- IMPROVE SOIL: Compost flower beds, vegetable gardens and trimmings. Mulching gradually adds nutrients from decayed organic matter already in your environment.
- USE TURF WISELY: Xeriscaping principles suggest that 10% or less of the property should be lawn. Turf uses 50-60% of residential landscape water. Irrigate in the early morning. Water is only needed when a footprint can be seen in the lawn after you walk across. Cut at the highest mover setting and use a mulching mower. Use St. Augustine “Floratam” sod
- IRRIGATE EFFICIENTLY: Limit irrigation to first year after planting for non-turf areas such as bedding and patios. Use drip or micro irrigation systems and include recycled water from the roof and redirected water from paved areas.
- MULCH: Mulch assists in holding water in the soil by restricting evaporation. Mulch reduces soil temperature by up to 10 degrees compared to bare soil. 18% of all US waste is yard waste! Get mulch from local sources and keep timings from your own yard.
- MAINTANCE: do not rake and collect grass trimmings. Spread grass trimmings that are left to rot return nutrients to your lawn. It has been shown that 40% more nitrogen fertilizer must be added to return what has been lost in removal – a waste of money and energy. Keep fertilizers and pesticides to a minimum and use integrated pest management (IPM). Allow natural predators such as lizards, snakes, ladybugs and use clandosan. Read fertilizer labels and use appropriate fertilizer for correct plants. Practice selective pruning and raise canopy to channel wind from the Southeast to reduce temperature around your house and yard. Regularly check your irrigation system for leaks and damage as well as proper coverage.
Extensive plant information can be found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu and native plant identification photos at www.plantsatlas.usf.edu
Filed under: Building knowledge, Resources, Sustainable Living | Tags: BBQ, cooking in south florida, outdoor kitchen, outdoor living, south florida
After looking into all the great benefits the South Florida kitchen can utilize on the inside, let’s move to the outside…
One of the great benefits of living in South Florida is the ability to be outside pretty much year round. With the exception of some heavy rain-days, our climate is ideal to be outside. There are numerous options to add living space to the exterior without much effort.
Going back to some of the earlier settlers that helped define some of the appropriate building features, we see large overhangs and nice elevated porches. The fireplace, serving as the cooking area, is pushed to the outside or located, under cover, outside completely.
Outdoor living room
A great space to take the concept of outdoor living to the next level is the kitchen. From a simple BBQ area to a full fledged kitchen, with all the appliances its indoor companion would have.
Let’s start with the simple features. Pretty any outdoor kitchen will have, and is likely to be centered around, a BBQ. It makes perfect sense to have the BBQ outside, a favorite summer activity for northern climates and a year round treat for our southern climate to enjoy. Having this heat creating monster outside has another benefit in our backyard: no need to cool down the hot air created from cooking or open flame grilling!
The next best feature for the outdoor kitchen is a sink, preferable with some counter space adjacent to it to wash off prepped food for the BBQ and other items.
Outdoor BBQ South Florida
Since we have created a counter, the next step is under counter storage. Waterproofing is key and the type of storage will be different from items stored inside, especially perishable goods.
After storage we can focus on cooling: refrigeration. Besides minimizing the distance to grab a cold beer, and in the process letting out valuable cooled air by opening your sliding or French doors, the proximity offers many benefits, especially when entertaining.
Of course, when selecting items like cook top/BBQ and refrigerator, look for Energy Star or gas options. For the faucet, get a low Flow WaterSense label type and consider draining into a collecting barrel or rain garden. With limited use, it is easy to control what will go down the drain in the outdoor sink!
Items to avid on the outside:
Dishwasher, Microwave and Toaster/small appliances. Leave them inside and only bring them out for events. The dishwasher required proper drainage and this is an item that you also want to leave inside, to make your outdoor kitchen a reasonable project to complete. Even slightly moist areas will create mold and small appliances tend to rust quickly due to our high humidity. No need for mold and rust in your great new outdoor kitchen.
…remember the best of South Florida: year round vegetation! This means that you can grow your own herbs and even some veggies year round, and it also means that composting is an easy must…integrate it into the layout and have designated spaces close by. Your neighbors/guests just might pick up on the idea after seeing how easy it is.
If you like to get started on your own kitchen renovation, contact Sebastian Eilert Architecture today:
786.556.3118 Sebastian@SebastianEilert.com
Filed under: Building knowledge, Resources, Sustainable Living, Water Efficiency | Tags: Landscaping, Sebastian Eilert Architecture, Water Savings
Previously mentioned in landscaping and irrigation posts, a rain barrel is a wonderful way to use some of that otherwise wasted water and reduce your potable water need for irrigation. There are some good options available for sale, but why not get creative and make it a fun weekend project to build your own piece of green building – a rain barrel.
I noticed a number of workshops for this and have myself 2 preferred sources, one of them in our backyard at the University of Florida. They have teamed up with Miami Dade County Consumer and Water Department and are going around town to show and tell how it is done.
I recently noticed them at the Coral Gables Farmers market and at the Going Green day for the Village of Pinecrest…so keep looking for them.
Painted rain barrel
TOOLS:
Electric Drill
- Drill bit ½-inch to 1-inch
- Drill bit 3/16-inch
- Drill bit 1/8 inch
- Jigsaw
- Marking pen
- Phillips screw driver
- Pocket knife
- Work-bench
- Extension cord
- Safety glasses
SUPPLIES:
Plastic drum (55 gal. is best). Barrels that have carried food products are recommended. Some cleaning product barrels are OK after rinsing. Do NOT use petroleum or toxic chemical barrels.
The following are all PVC fittings:
- Two-inch male adapter
- Two-inch male slip x 3/4-inch female threaded adapter
- 3/4-inch male threaded x 3/4-inch female threaded elbow (3/4 inch street el)
- Four inch long 3/4-inch threaded nipple
The following can be either metal or plastic:
- 3/4-inch female sillcock or hose bibb
- PVC cement
- Teflon™ tape or Teflon™ pipe joint compound
- Silicone sealant
- Three stainless steel sheet metal screws #10 x 3/4 inch
- Stainless steel mesh with plastic rim kitchen strainer (4 to 6 inch diameter)
ASSEMBLY:
- Turn the barrel so that the end with no openings is facing up.
- Fit the strainer on the end which is facing up so that it lays flat.
- Mark around the perimeter of the strainer, remove strainer and draw another line about ½ inch inside the perimeter line.
- Drill a pilot hole using the large bit just inside the inner drawn circle.
- Using the saber saw follow the inner circle line until the circle is removed. Remove the circle if it has fallen into the barrel. This is a good time to make sure the barrel is clean inside.
- Drill pilot holes in the strainer flanges and handle using the 3/16-inch bit. Place the strainer on the barrel and mark the hole locations on the barrel.
- Drill pilot holes in the barrel using the 1/8-inch bit.
- Partially screw into the strainer the #10 screws. Check to make sure the strainer holes match the barrel holes.
- Apply silicone sealant to the strainer rim and place the strainer into position. Tighten screws until just snug. (Pat yourself on the back, you have just completed the first part of the barrel).
- Place the barrel on its side. Unscrew one of the plastic filler plugs in the other end of the barrel.
- Apply PVC cement to the two-inch male adapter sleeve and place the two-inch male x 3/4-inch female threaded adapter inside and press together for a few seconds.
- Insert street el into the 3/4-inch hole of the adapter. Use teflon tape or sealant on all threaded parts
- Insert 4 inch nipple into street el
- Screw assembly into barrel. Four-inch nipple will work as a wrench to tighten first two fittings.
- Connect water faucet to 4-inch nipple. Hand-tighten to proper position.
- Place barrel on level, sturdy base. Direct downspout over the strainer. (Hooray, you now have a functioning rain barrel).
Here are some more helpful hints from UF: http://miami-dade.ifas.ufl.edu/
Contact Sebastian Eilert about your green project of any size (Sebastian@SebastianEilert.com 786.556.3118)
Filed under: Air Quality, Building knowledge, Construction and Permits, Energy Efficiency, Hot Topic, Resources, Sustainable Living
Here is the next installment in the “quick and dirty” rundown of simple quick tips to improve your home and make it a more green building; for your health, for your wallet and for your overall well being…
Part I will focus on small to no budget items (please see previous post of Part I)
Part II will look at medium expenses or items to look at if they break and need (NEED!) replacement
Part III will look at the big changes that will have a lasting impact on your life 9from a green building perspective, but who knows, maybe more…)
Part II. What really works:
Lighting. If you started with the light bulbs but want to do more or have limited opportunity for changing light bulbs, evaluate your entire lighting system. Install dimmers, replace old fixtures, preferable with LED’s. This is particularly effective for recessed lighting fixtures (such as the ones replaced in the Alcaraz-Arango kitchen). A pleasant side effect is that the heat effect from the lights will also be reduced, thus reducing the need to cool down the house/space i.e., use less Air Conditioning.
Air Conditioning. The general rule is to look at a unit when it is 10 years or older. Typically systems have advanced in efficiency and the payback to upgrade can be realized in 4-6 years. Look for the SEER value. This is the indicator of how efficient the unit is. Current code required a 13 SEER unit; a 16 or 17 SEER unit is considered high efficiency and 18+ SEER is very high efficiency. The later are a choice investment and should be evaluated for Life Cycle Cost and Return of Investment. (THIS OPTION WILL REQUIRE A PERMIT)
Remember to upkeep the correct filters and also clean the ducts, if you do not replace them.
Windows and Doors. After you have gone through your home and weatherized (sealed) the doors and windows they might still be too old and too leaky to properly seal the house. At this time consider upgrading your windows. Start with the single awning type glass windows and old school sliding doors. Also consider upgrading to impact glass and earn a possible deductible on your insurance policy. To go for top shelf, include low-E glazing and make your windows energy start type. The consumer label will lead you to the most energy efficient windows and doors and will maximize your bottom line savings.
Make sure you work with the right professionals and get quality installation to ensure excellent weatherization on your brand new items. (THIS OPTION WILL REQUIRE A PERMIT)
Landscaping and Irrigation. Look for some of the other posts for this topic. Under the mid level renovation, consider spending some money on a rain water collection system: Gutters and rain barrels. This will also help with erosion control around the edge of your roof line.
For specific help, contact Sebastian Eilert to get a custom plan to green your home.
Sebastian@SebastianEilert.com 786.556.3118
Filed under: Building knowledge, Landscaping, Resources, Sustainable Living
A great article by Donna Shelly for the South Miami Town Center magazine, now called SOMi…. Look for a copy around town.
Contact Donna for freelance writing @ writeamount@yahoo.com
Going “green” to reduce greenhouse gasses, shrink the size of our carbon footprint and wean ourselves off an insatiable thirst for petroleum involves a wide variety of potential solutions. In some cases, the remedies are complicated and costly; in others, they are straight-forward and downright economical.
We would like to share some of those environmentally-responsible practices with you through a series of columns over the next year. We hope to inspire you to adopt new habits and make informed choices for a healthier planet. And we want to hear from you. Tell us your success stories and share your greening tips with us and the readers of SoMi Mag.
The choices you make regarding what you plant in your backyard or on your balcony can have a profound impact on the environment. That is especially true in our neck of the woods where certain exotic plants, freed from the ravages of frost, went from being pretty to being a pest. In some cases these species were brought here decades ago to dress-up the native scrub, sand and palmetto landscape. The list of invasive-exotic flora is quite extensive in Florida. In SoMi, we fight two of the State’s most noxious plants: rosary pea vine (Abrus precatorius), with enough poison in one pea to kill a human and Brazilian pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius), a particularly adaptive member of the sumac family that thrives in all eco-systems from hammock to mangrove swamp.
Selecting appropriate landscape materials can save water, reduce the need for pesticide and fertilizers, and make gardening a whole lot easier for you. Not bad when you think of it—cheaper, less work, and good for the environment.
To start “Going Native,” we recommend some websites that are packed with great information about native, non-native and invasive plant life, xeriscaping, integrated pest management, composting, capturing rain water for irrigation, and more. (Narrative wc = 309)
www.floridaplants.com Is chock full of information. Warning! You could spend hours here.
www.ifas.ufl.edu This is the University of Florida’s site with particulars about plants that help you make an informed decision before venturing out to your local plant nursery.
www.floridanativeplants.com Florida Native Plants descriptions and prices
www.floridagardener.com Listing and links for many Florida Native Plant providers
www.afnn.org Association of Florida Native Nurseries
www.fnps.org The Florida Native Plant Society
www.nsis.org Your Florida Backyard with a lot of information about all aspects of gardening in Florida, including how to attract butterflies.
www.compostinfor.com Florida’s Online Composting Center
www.miamidade.gov/conservation/rain_barrel.asp Rain barrel workshop information
www.davesgarden.com Make your own rain barrel, with pictures to help you along.
